International Polar Year Starts on Polarstern

During the weekend, we enter Prydz Bay (it‘s time). Around the Antarctic there is a potpourri of countries doing polar research (40 permanent stations, and another 50 manned only during the summer), in this bay represented by Zhongshan (China), Progress (Russia), and Davis (Australia). China and Russia border each other directly, no more than 800 m apart. The Chinese -polite- invite the chief scientist and the ship's master for brunch with sweets, the Russians -friendly- throwing a reception with vodka. Over the stations were flown flags of black/red/gold as a welcome reception to Germany. The chief scientist takes a present under the arm and flies to land. The stations are located on rocky ground. Spare parts for Chinese sledges are a costfree cooperative service. But what is a good gift for a station visit? A blue grey copper engraving with a table ice berg motif from Bremerhaven artist, Michael Wolf splits the difference between home and here. Also very likeable is for sure the laser engraved glass cube promising Neumayer III in three dimensions - Antarctic glass pearls have corners.

Antarctic stations have a special rustic charm. ‚Design‘ and ‚aesthetic‘ are unknown expressions. Functional and irregularly distributed onto what patches of ground are flat, on stilts, to ensure that the snow drifts pass under buildings instead of blocking the entrances. Colours are related to the available weather-protection paint. Harshly treated by the outside air, which is full of salt, the iron below inevitably decides to corrode. Polar mimicry - a bit of blending in with all the other artefacts of civilization that have been carried to this place and stored on the well weathered granite. Any reminiscence of Scott and his explorer colleagues inspired by the wood that has been used in the buildings is ruined by the satellite antennas and wires hanging in the air.

Inside it's dim because smaller windows are better to keep out the cold. Group photos of predecessor station generations are fondly used as decoration on the walls. They also like posters showing home and greener and warmer climes. There was New Year celebrated by China a week ago. In the mess room of the Antarctic dependency, streamers and glitter hang above garlic and chicken legs and in front of the door beside the German and other flags there are some waves of bright green, pink, blinding yellow, and sky blue as a greeting to the new (overwintering) year. Also very colourful in the smoking room beside the alabaster bust of the station's namesake, Zhongshan, is a hanging tapestry: it shows the Potala...

This ship is one of the most powerful in its class - and now it's truly blossoming. Groups flying out to land, the working deck full of boxes and crates, tents in red, radios with antennas, drills on sledges, raft beside the canoe, gasoline in a tank. In between, planning the diplomatic visit to Davis. Unknown shoals prevent our approach. The helicopters work continuously. Our two Australians look forward for a short homecoming- but are thwarted by technical and weather constraints. Davis must wait. Two lifeboats have to be tested; calm water motivates the ship's crew to lower them down and soon the red plastic tubs are bobbing between the floes. Synergism is always sought- a cameraman films this unbelievable ship from one of the tubs for the IPY opening ceremonies in Berlin and Paris. The chief scientists would like to be able to be on all decks at the same time. The captain asks the meteorologist on board for the location and intensity of the strong lows lurking outside in wait. St. Peter wants to play a role in our plans. On an island there are now scientists but without snow (remember? Dry air here); and sea ice is salty. As a result, an ice berg is conquered, cut into bite sized bits, and transported (best to avoid penguin dormitories- no one likes half digested krill in their tea), and so the island is watered with half a ton of ice so the lake and fjord corers can have soup. Helicopter pilots as water bearers. If you don't clean your plate, the weather gets bad. Clearly someone hasn't finished their ham hocks. The weather deteriorates, snowdrift, helicopters grounded, land trips postponed. Unexpected circumstances require continual flexibility and direct action- in short, an „expedition“. But the magnetometer has to go on shore; it must register the Earth's magnetic field to normalize our seagoing measurements. It's accompanied by a seismic station to keep in from getting lonely. The seismic station can listen for four weeks to Polarstern, but afterwards it has to explain in detail the structure of the Earth's crust below us. The ship moves a few miles, instantaneously transmitting information to the geologists about possible coring sites. What isn't finished by day can still be completed in the short polar night. Strong sediment stenches intrigue rather than wrinkle the noses of professional geologists. Conjointly cutting cores and begging samples in the misty morning light. During lunch time it is discussed who has slept the least. And now this has to all be translated into English. Any questions?

Perhaps about wind? In each cabin there is very small bathroom and in each bathroom there is a floor drain but why does the water this morning go everywhere but down the drain? If you glance out the porthole you know. The ham hock low has now filled its lungs and found its parking place above us. It does what it wants with the surface waters in which we swim. Even at -1.7°C the water appears to be boiling - polar physics. Between breakfast and lunch the wind increases from 40 to 60 knots (equivalent of 110 km per hour and 11 on the Beaufort scale with gusts up to 12). Sonorous resonations and vibrations of the upper decks convince you that control over 12,000 tons of steel are but child's play to natural forces. In the meteorological lesson we learn that force 6 gusts are loud but more bark than bite. Force 12 gusts are not as loud, but have a higher frequency and sound nasty. Here and now, the Prydz Bay sound, composed from geostrophic currents in duet with catabatic winds. If you want to know something about wind you should drop in; we have a lot. And the weather station conducts an aeolic orchestra out of control. Wound up by being rolled about in your bunk and - then, gone. During the breakfast egg people are arguing at 7 knots where all the wind went. The weather can change very! rapidly in this area.

While the geophysicists lay down their seismometers on profile „A“, IPY descends upon us. The IPY logo on both sides of Polarstern led us to expect it. IPY (the International Polar Year) has started on the 1st of March and will last for 24 months (the polar research year needs to be longer because it has only summer seasons). It is the third time that researchers all over the world have come together for coordinated work in polar regions (1st in 1882/83, 2nd in 1932/33). At this time there are 50,000 scientists from 60 countries and from all disciplines - one impressive monster of a project. International cooperation has always been a part of polar research, but in this additional bit of bundling, with special presentations to the public, the goal is to move the polar areas and their role in climate and environmental change to the forefront of the minds of politicians and communities. (It is surprising how many people do not know why polar bears never eat penguins).

In the Blue Saloon, the official reception room on Polarstern with a library and tiled stove, IPY is now on the forefront of all our minds (the oven is not blue, but the carpet is). The chief scientist in a tie and the officers in their uniforms and drinks in hand give short speeches about polar research and its importance in past and present. Cheers, IPY! Just a formal procedure since we are already part of IPY. The chief scientist's birthday links the important to the unimportant - giving gifts and singing congratulatory songs. The chief scientist is deeply impressed with what comes together on his behalf: Polarstern in marzipan on a butter cream cake (the kitchen borrowed for 2 nights), BlueGirl Calendar of blonde geophysicists in blue overalls showing smiles and legs, a sock was turned into a penguin (the other is envious), a home weather station with rock attached (if the stone is white, it is snowing, etc), a virtual bouquet of snowdrops (greetings from the Polarstern coordinator from afar), a mountain in oil (the original is waiting in Potsdam), and finally a green glacier stone from Greenland (which someone has carried halfway around the world). Cheers, Hans! This day ends up in the „Zillertal“ while outside the OBSes are going for a dive.

With best greetings, in good shape and in the middle of a lot of work on Profile „A“,

Prof. Dr. H.-W. Hubberten (Chief Scientist), Dr. Hannes Grobe, and the participants of the expedition

(Translation: Christian de la  Rocha)